Month: February 2024

Plans are one of those things. Especially down here, deep in the south. Here, man is just a tiny little cog in the infinitely larger course of nature. You have to be flexible and react when external circumstances change. Of course, we expected this – having to adapt to the weather, the wind and the sometimes harsh whims of nature. That’s why there was and is only a rough route and an approximate schedule that we want to follow, just as the Antarctic would allow us to.

However, we didn’t expect that a virus would be one of the things that would thwart our plans. Unfortunately, this is the case with the highly pathogenic bird flu virus.

It was already clear at the beginning of the year that the detection of the virus in South Georgia and its spread would affect our plans and our ability to land and move around in South Georgia. Even in “normal” times, it is not easy to obtain a permit to visit this unique sub-Antarctic island and is subject to numerous conditions.

Following the outbreak of the disease, which is devastating for numerous seabirds and marine mammals, the authorities reacted quickly and clearly, uncompromisingly putting nature, the island’s unique wildlife and its protection above all else and – in response to the outbreak – gradually closing more and more regions to visitors, first partially and later completely.

By the end of January, almost all landing sites were already closed and it became clear that we would have to change our original plans. The historical sites, the traces of Shackleton, his final resting place … just as inaccessible as the wildlife on the island. Sailing 800 nautical miles through the Southern Ocean and from there to the Falklands and then hardly being able to go ashore, or possibly nowhere at all, doesn’t really make sense.

Accepting this was difficult and is still not easy. After all, South Georgia was a central part of our plan. We went back and forth a lot about how to deal with it. But as is so often the case, there are two sides to every coin, something positive can also come out of negative things, or simply put: every shit is an opportunity.

In our case, this opportunity means Weddell Sea and / or further south. On the one hand, because we can now use the time elsewhere and consider other destinations. Secondly, because this year’s ice situation actually allows us to penetrate this part of Antarctica on the eastern side of the Antarctic Peninsula due to the difficult ice conditions – usually thick pack ice far to the north. A region that can only be visited and sailed very rarely. The sea that was the undoing of Shackleton and his expedition, whose pack ice trapped the Endurance, crushed it and ultimately became its grave. The side of the Peninsula where there are numerous rarely visited places and much that is still unknown to discover. And which is also historically associated with other big names besides Shackleton, such as Otto Nordenskjöld and his Swedish Antarctic expedition with the Antarctica (1901-1904).

And so it is with a heavy heart that we give up South Georgia. Instead, we want to seize this unexpected opportunity when it presents itself and set an expectant course for the east side of the Antarctic Peninsula, Antarctic Sound and the Weddell Sea. After all, we are here to explore – and what could be more exciting than inaccessible and lesser-known parts of the world?

As the weather forecast for the Drake Passage predicts a full-blown storm, we have two days in Puerto Williams on Isla Navarino.

We are moored at a mooring buoy, well protected from the strong westerly wind, and take the dinghy to the jetty of the local yacht club, Micalvi, to go ashore. This is housed on a former German Rhine steamer and also serves as a jetty for sailing boats. Countless flags and pennants from previous boats adorn the walls and ceiling, and we also leave our mark in the form of a Sailing SOUTH 2024 sticker.

Even though Puerto Williams, like Ushuaia, claims the title of the southernmost city in the world, the city is perhaps a little overstated. A good 2,300 inhabitants live here, compared to around 67,000 in Ushuaia. The center of Puerto Williams is manageable, the central square and the buildings are rather small.

Just as inconspicuous as the town center is a small monument in the immediate vicinity, which we almost overlook: Here stands part of the bow of the Yelcho, the Chilean naval vessel with which Shackleton, under the command of Luis Pardo, finally rescued his 22 remaining men from Elephant Island on August 30, 1916 after several failed attempts.

Day 1 – Cerro Bandera

The weather is kind to us, and some of us decide to hike up the Cerro Bandera, on whose summit the eponymous Chilean flag flies and a magnificent view rewards the steep climb. Initially, we search for the right path through wild jungle, and not just once, but we work up quite a sweat, especially on the extremely steep terrain above the tree line, which is overgrown with bushes, berries and lichen – who would have thought that we’d still be too warm even in our undershirts … but once we reach the top, the flag is blowing strongly in the strong wind. Sweaters, jackets and hats are quickly put back on. The view of the Beagle Channel, Puerto Williams and as far as Ushuaia in the west is breathtakingly beautiful, with the Dentes de Navarino towering majestically over the island. The fresh snow of the previous night has already disappeared again.

Day 2

The next morning we have a detailed briefing in and around the boat, safety on board, sails etc. We have already assigned the watches the evening before over beer and pisco sour in the local bar..

For the rest of the day, some of us explore the river and the bay by dinghy, while the mountaineering team digs out all the mountaineering equipment from the depths of the benches and spaces in the mess hall and sorts out harnesses, carabiners, slings, etc. We prepare suitable Prusik slings for each of us. We prepare suitable Prusik slings for each of us and have a lot of fun practicing self-rescue, the ascent on the rope, up on deck and Prusiking ourselves up and down two free halyards.

We all spend the evening together in the bar before the planned departure for the next day – it’s a wonderful, long evening, with lots of dancing, laughing and singing. Who would have thought that all crew members love to dance? It’s not until late at night that we return to our bunks on board the dinghy.

Before our departure on Monday, we have to go through the official authorities again – the same procedure as when we entered the country, this time in reverse order. So once again we go to the prefectura to prove that we have nothing to declare, are not smuggling any goods and still look like the photos in our passports after two days. In the afternoon, Michael, the previous skipper, flies to Ushuaia in a helicopter and says goodbye to the Selma with a heavy heart.

We take a last shower on the Micalvi, stock up on fresh water, stow the dinghy back in the forepeak and are ready for the final start south.

Before we can really set off, there are still a few things on the agenda: a last major shopping trip, re-stowing the same and the last fresh vegetables delivered. But above all the formalities, including customs and emigration procedures. We all have to appear in person at the immigration office at the port in the afternoon. The wait for the completed papers drags on, some of us use the time for a short nap. But at some point, after a final official check of every single face against the photo in our passports, we are free to leave Argentina.

From Argentina to Chile

The weather is uncomfortable for the first time, it is raining and there is a strong wind from the east. Piotr decides that we won’t set sail until around midnight, hopefully with the rain easing and the wind shifting to the west.

After dinner, everyone retires to their bunks to get a few more hours of sleep. And at two o’clock in the morning, the time has come. The sound of the engine starting and the hustle and bustle on deck wakes everyone up. Suddenly we are underway, the lights of Ushuaia slowly getting smaller and smaller in our wake. Even if it is only a first short trip to Puerto Williams, we have now cast off the lines. It is an emotional moment. Everyone is standing on deck, lost in thought. Two years, wishes and dreams come together in this one moment, and it’s not just the raindrops running down my cheeks.

Piotr and Woitek steer the Selma and us through the cold and wet first night, I wake up at around six in the morning to the slightly different sound of the engine. Up on deck I am greeted by blue skies and sunshine, the last mile to Puerto Williams and the Isla Navarinho lies ahead of us, behind us the rain of the night has left the higher elevations of the Argentinean mountain range magically sugared white. One or two of us gradually crawl out of the bunk. We tie up at a mooring buoy not far from Micalvi, next to two other boats, and after a coffee we heave the dinghy out of the forepeak onto the deck and get it ready to go ashore.

Emigration from Argentina is followed by immigration in Chile – another extensive and time-consuming procedure. We fill out our personal papers at the Micalvi Yacht Club, and Piotr is then on his way with all our papers and the ship’s papers. A good hour later, we are allowed to present ourselves again in person so that the official authorities can finally check that our passport photo matches the real one.

We’ve been on the Beagle Channel for almost a week now, all the team members have gradually arrived in Ushuaia and we’ve been complete since Tuesday.

What luck and how nice that everyone has actually landed here safe and sound, in good spirits and with a lot of anticipation in their fortunately complete luggage.

We moved into a large apartment together and explored the city and surrounding area from here.

Although the crew’s only meeting in Berlin was almost a year ago, we were able to pick up seamlessly where we left off. The first impression is confirmed: the chemistry is right.

The days fly by.

We hike together through lichen-covered jungle, enjoy fantastic views of the Beagle Channel and Ushuaia, share huge plates of carne asado, taste pisco sours and Patagonian beer. We decide to go on a day trip to the east, which turns into a wonderful day where one experience is more beautiful than the next.

We load the underwater drone, which has finally arrived after a month-long odyssey, into the car – there is more space in the apartment than on the Selma – to test it out. Unfortunately, after unpacking numerous boxes and cartons, it turns out that some of the accessories don’t fit the drone model. Unfortunately, we won’t be able to use the second, swiveling camera or a gripper to pick sediment samples or similar from the seabed. But after some puzzling, various downloads and updates, at least the rover is ready for use. A final test in the water is still pending.

We bring huge amounts of provisions onto the ship and stow everything on board, sorted thematically: vegetables and fruit in the cool forepeak, meat in the bilge surrounded by cold water, everything else in the depths of the Selma, under the benches, table and floorboards, between the backrests and the side of the ship, in cupboards, lockers and drawers. It is not easy to keep track of what is stowed where, but it can be said with certainty that even with double the travel time, we do not have to go hungry.

The mountaineering team (Alan, Karen, Jan, Christiane and Piotr) check a first part of the equipment – the pulka sleds are prepared, the two tents are set up and checked for completeness – the strong wind at the harbor gives us a tiny taste and some practice for more difficult conditions.

On Thursday evening we bring all our luggage on board and move into our berths: Alan and Peter get the quietest one amidships, Gerhard and Jan opt for the aft berth, the women move forward: Karen and Ursula to the starboard side, Unda and I into the port berth.

It will be our first evening together in the Selma mess, it feels good for the moment and whets our appetite for the many more to come. The next day, Friday, we are expecting Wojtek and Ewa (our co-skippers), and our departure from Argentina is also planned for Friday.